As the seasons begin to merge into each other, with less definition between them, when is the right time to winterise your narrowboat? River Canal Rescue suggests a few maintenance checks now, could avoid future repair bills.
Cooling systems
Add or replace anti-freeze (per manufacturer’s guidelines) to the cooling system. This reduces the risk of freezing water-associated splits/fractures and corrosion to the engine and it will improve its cooling efficiency.
With raw water river-drawn cooling systems, drain down by briefly running the engine when out of the water to empty the system. If afloat, shut off the inlet valve (seacock) and drain as much system water as possible.
If there’s no drain plug, disconnect a hose, drain the system water and leave disconnected. Although this will not empty the system completely, it will allow for expansion should the water freeze, reducing the risk of ruptured pipes. Insulate any accessible tight bends (where fluid collects even after draining) and when ready to cruise again, reconnect any pipes, refill the system and open the seacock.
If the engine’s winterised or seacock’s closed, clearly mark the engine and its controls; it should prevent accidental operation.
Water and heating
After draining down the water system (including drinking water and cistern), leave taps in the open position. This allows air to come out of the taps, reducing pressure on the pipes if any leftover water does freeze Most water heaters have a screw plug at their base and can accommodate an old-fashioned cycle pump which makes emptying water that much quicker.
An unnoticed split pipe that causes floods and subsequent sinking may not be covered by insurers (not all cover frost damage and a gradual incursion of water may not be classed as accidental). If covered, insurance policies normally insist ‘machinery is winterised according to manufacturers’ recommendations’.
Lag hot and cold pipes and top up anti-freeze in keel cooling and other sealed heating systems (such as radiators connected to the boiler).
General checks
Check lockers, cockpit and other areas to ensure all drain holes and plugs are clear of debris, leaves, dirt etc. These areas block easily and heavy or prolonged rain can cause a vessel to take on water causing corrosion where the water’s left sitting or even worse, sinking. Boats lower in the water will have their shower, sink or air vent outlets nearer to the water level which can have devastating results.
Test the bilge pump and if possible, invest in an automatic one – it’s more reliable than a manual. Automatic bilge pumps immediately respond to water ingress with the float switch dictating when it should pump. Should a leak develop from cooling system, hull or other source (or there’s a build up of rain water), this will keep your vessel safe.
Check the battery charge levels when leaving and returning to the boat. Heavy rainfall, leaking stern glands and issues with weed hatches can result in water ingress that quickly fills the boat and causes it to sink. If batteries go flat at a critical point it could be ‘game over’.
Grease the stern tube before leaving the boat, this will prevent water ingress. Although most stern glands leak once the propeller turns, the grease acts like a seal whilst not in use.
Secure boat mooring pins and ropes but leave them slack enough to deal with the normal rise or fall of water levels. Where possible attach a long rope to a tree or higher ground, so that if flooding occurs, or the boat becomes loose in high winds, the additional rope provides a safety line. In extreme weather or prolonged rainfall, visit the boat regularly to adjust mooring ropes and check bilge pumps and batteries are coping with the situation.
Run the engine for an hour every time you visit as this pushes oil around the engine and prevents rusting, plus it tops up the battery if left running long enough (beware of doing this if you’ve drained the cooling system!).
Spray terminals with a silicone-free lubricant and grease all available grease points on the engine and drive, plus electrical connectors. Also lubricate linkages and gear/throttle slides, this will prevent rusting/corrosion and give these components a longer life.
Generators
If not in use, store in a gas-tight locker – the same regulations as Liquid Petroleum Gas (LPG) apply.
Possessions
Remove or put out of site any alcohol, valuable and electrical items. Fit decent locks (your insurance policy requires this) and close and lock all windows and access points. Fix external items, such as mushroom vents, solar panels and chimneys, with extra-strength sealant and invest in security shear nuts. Ask nearby boats to call if they have any concerns.
Diesel treatment
Excessive water in the tank can lead to water feeding through the fuel system. To prevent this;
Regularly check the filler cap seal and replace if worn, cracked or damaged. The cap sits lower than the deck so if it’s been raining wipe away excess water before opening.
Either leave the tank empty during winterisation and remove any water on your return or leave the tank full and treated*.
*Fuel treatments remove water and deal with contamination such as diesel bug – where enzymes, bacteria etc live off the water in diesel and affect the diesel properties. Inactive boats are more at risk of growth developing in the fuel tanks so treat with Marine 16 Diesel Fuel Complete.
Freezing weather & ice
If the boat’s encased in ice and you’re worried about the effects on the hull don’t rush to break the ice – it can result in more damage than simply leaving it. Only break the ice if you need to move, and undertake with caution. The stress on the hull from a large surface area of ice is huge and at a minimum will damage the blacking.
River Canal Rescue runs boat and engine maintenance courses throughout the year, to find out more visit www.rivercanalrescue.co.uk email enquiries@rivercanalrescue.co.uk or call 01785 785680.